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Old 09-11-2007, 05:20 PM   #1
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Default TUTORIAL: Engine Start Button W/Relay

Hey everyone, today I did an Engine Start button for ChrisCarlos. This tutorial is based off of his car which is a 2004 Eshift. The MT's are the same to do, and are a bit easier IMO because there is less clutter where the button goes. Both are the same difficulty.

1) First thing is first, if you have an Eshift, GENTLY pry up the chrome trim around the shifter assembly. Be careful not to scratch anything, if you use a screw driver, wrap it with a towel and gently pry it up enough so you can get your fingers in and pry it up. Be gentle to not pull to hard and break anything. If you have an MT, just pull by the inside edge of the leather shift boot and it will come out.

2) Once you got that out, go ahead and unplug the THREE harness'. One is for the Cig lighter ring, one is for the cig lighter, and one is for the ashtray bulb. Unplug all of them and set the console aside.

3) Remove the cigarette lighter from the console. This in my opinion is the most annoying step if you plan on conserving your cig lighter assembly. In order to not break it, you must be very gentle at pushing the white tabs in to slide the assembly loose. Once you did that, gently separate the center heater from the outside assembly. Be careful NOT TO BREAK THE BLACK PLASTIC RING. IT WILL BE USED AGAIN!!

4) Have your dremel and circular sanding bit ready. Slowly dremel out the cig lighter whole so the starter button can freely move around. You will need the extra play to align the button and the ring to be centered and look good. THe idea is not to have a wedge fit. Dremel it nice and open, but not all the way!

It should look like this when done.


Now, time to dremel the plastic ring. Dremel the ring ALL THE WAY to the edge. Be careful NOT to damage the edge, you want it to look as OEM as possible. You will also need to dremel the chrome ridges off the button as they hinder the button from going all the way through the ring without breaking it. Keep in mind, none of this is pressure fitted. Pressure will BREAK the plastic ring. You will need to speed up the dremel to do the ring as its designed to be heat resistant from the cig lighter. You literally are shaving it down.

Here is another pic:



Now what you need to do, is glue or TIGHTLY tape the ring to the button. Make sure its centered. Also, make sure you align the little tab of the ring on the bottom to align with the top of the center console. You can dremel that little tab off if you want. I personally dont, i just make sure everything is straight and aligned. Make sure you DO NOT get any glue in the little hole on the Engine Start button as you can damage it!

When you got the button and ring glued/taped up together go ahead and place it in the console. Use a hot glue gun and glue the button from the bottom of the console. You will need to use alot of glue, and make sure you dont shift the button around and that its centered. Once the glue is slightly dry, go ahead and rest the console on its face so there is some pressure holding the button in place.

Now, ONTO THE WIRING. I use a relay when i do this so the button is INACTIVE when the car is on, and nobody can start it accidentally and it will preserve the life of the button.

what you need to do first, remove the plastic shin panel under the steering column. Remove the AC temp sensor and hose, and unplug the Memory Seat harness near the coin holder (if you have memory seats) and unplug the headlight washer harness (if applicable) Remove the 3 screws and set aside. Remove the Hood release cable, and push in the tabs for the OBD II port and pull the harness through. It should look like this.







Now, unplug the ignition harness and cut back the plastic sheath that covers the wires. Get read as you will be needing TWO wires out of that stalk. Set aside the Black/Red wire, and Black/White wire.

It should look like this, the wiring is the same for almost ALL toyota models.



Remove the metal reinforcement, it is 3 10 MM nuts. THis is what it looks like.



Now to the actual wiring and what to do with the button, Relay and the 2 wires from the ignition harness...

For the Button itself, look at it, turn it around so you see the back. Two of the prongs will not get used, and wherever you get your button from, it should come with a plug, you do not need to sodder right onto the button, and will only make things harder. If yours did not come with a plug to plug into the back, get one from an electronics store that works. 3 wires will be comming out the back. GROUND, IGNITION and one that goes to the #85 Prong on the Relay. Try and color code your wires to make life Eaiser.

I did:
RED=Ignition
BLACK=Ground
BLUE=Starter

Now for the RELAY.. You will need a standard 4 prong relay.

The #87 Prong goes to the Black/red wire on the ignition harness.
the #86 prong goes to GROUND.
the #30 prong goes to the black/white starter wire. DO NOT cut the starter wire and only tap into it. You can still use your key to start the car this way.

Here is a picture of my self made wiring diagram.



Edit: A diff diagram if you can't understand Malek's cro-magnum wiring diagram.



Take the ground from the start button and the one from the relay and tie them together. Make a little loop with the open end of the wire like this so when you put the metal reinforcement back, the bolt will hold it in place against the metal and grounding it. Like this:




Zip tie the relay tightly to the harness under the steering column like this, and clean up and tidy up. I personally HATE messy wiring, so how clean you do it is personal preference. Make sure all wiring is clear of any pinch points. Here is where i tied the relay.



Once the wiring and cleaning up is done, plug the Ignition harness back in. Place the metal reinforcement back, start the 3 nuts, and then ground your 2 wires from the Relay and start button. Then hand tighten the 3 bolts. Do not overtighten as you will snap a nut or bolt.

Place the shin panel back after you DOUBLE check your wiring. Place the center console back in, make sure there is NOTHING in the way of the wires comming out of the button. THe button is rather long, so it will need all the clearance you get give it.

Here is what the End result should look like.



ENJOY, be smart, be safe, and do not mess up your car.

Last edited by IS300luver; 09-11-2007 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:12 AM   #2
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had to the first guy for a DIY huh malek :P
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Old 09-16-2007, 11:33 AM   #3
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this is so sick.

any idea of how much the start button goes for?
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Old 09-16-2007, 12:42 PM   #4
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nice job
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monnette_is300 View Post
this is so sick.

any idea of how much the start button goes for?
about 50 bucks man. That should include wires, the relay and misc. materials. If you follow this tutorial, you can have an inexpensive cool mod that makes people say "ooooh" when they get in your car.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:24 PM   #6
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my next project!! thanks for DIY!!! +rep when i can
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Old 09-19-2007, 12:09 AM   #7
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Im doing it on Sunday when I have off. I'll post my outcome
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:36 AM   #8
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where did u guys get the engine start button.
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:36 AM   #9
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What about the Toyota start button, doesnt it go in one of the empty slots on the left side of the dash?
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:58 AM   #10
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heres a quick question. if u do this mod are u still able to hard wire things such as a radar detector into your cig lighter or will it blow a fuse or something...
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:09 PM   #11
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Why is the switch grounded? The only reason I can come up with is that the switch has a light in it.

This does not need a relay, your not powering the starter through this switch, just other relays. What gauge is the ign. wire your tapping?
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Old 01-15-2008, 02:42 PM   #12
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Default v1 hardwire, etc...w/ push start

Quote:
Originally Posted by I_BuRtOnBoArDz_I View Post
heres a quick question. if u do this mod are u still able to hard wire things such as a radar detector into your cig lighter or will it blow a fuse or something...
I was wondering the same.
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:57 PM   #13
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mhm cuz i mean putting in that start button takes away ur outlet so what is one to do with their radar... any1 got an idea?
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:18 AM   #14
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mhm cuz i mean putting in that start button takes away ur outlet so what is one to do with their radar... any1 got an idea?
there's another outlet under the armrest

but that doesn't matter if you're actually HARD WIRING it in. you should be alright unless you're radar pulls crazy amps for some reason. and if it does, that's what fuses are for. just don't put a bigger fuse in there
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:18 AM   #15
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Why is the switch grounded? The only reason I can come up with is that the switch has a light in it.

This does not need a relay, your not powering the starter through this switch, just other relays. What gauge is the ign. wire your tapping?
yes, the switch is illuminated...

the wires directly off the switch don't need to be too heavy, but the ones going from the relay to ign. and pwr should be a descent guage
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:41 PM   #16
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now what kinda role does the key play in all this you still need to turn to start position or is key bypassed?
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
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now what kinda role does the key play in all this you still need to turn to start position or is key bypassed?
the key still operates as normal, instead of having to turn that extra bit to actually start the engine you just press the button...


OEM functionality of the key is retained as well...
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:31 PM   #18
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ah so no get in and press button like the new model....... anyone tryed using new ignition set up on the 300s?
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:43 PM   #19
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ah so no get in and press button like the new model....... anyone tryed using new ignition set up on the 300s?
nope, not unless you wanna spend more than the new IS costs to retro it into your 1st gen...


this has been discussed many times, go read up over on .net
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:37 PM   #20
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lol try to keep my forums to minimum...... hate having to check multiple places.... worst yet remebering names and paswords uck....... how about setting up start button to work on its own bypassing the ignition........ and just using a keyfob to unlock doors likea viper system or something would have the illusion of it that way
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Old 02-02-2008, 02:46 AM   #21
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Sweet mod.. It looks like it belongs there +rep
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Old 02-11-2008, 07:58 PM   #22
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Is the button illuminated at all times while power is applied to the car? Or does the light extinguish after the car has been started?
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:07 PM   #23
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hey man awesome diy.. where did u get that start button from?
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:27 AM   #24
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hey man awesome diy.. where did u get that start button from?
a honda dealership...

or you can get one of those ignited push button starters somewhere online
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac View Post
ah so no get in and press button like the new model....... anyone tryed using new ignition set up on the 300s?
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nope, not unless you wanna spend more than the new IS costs to retro it into your 1st gen...


this has been discussed many times, go read up over on .net
what my start button does is i just go into the car and press the start button twice, engine will turn on by itself without me need to stick in the key. But to drive the car, I have to put in the car to ignition position then I can drive.
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Old 09-07-2008, 01:16 PM   #26
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That is one cool mod for the IS300.
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Old 10-03-2008, 11:43 AM   #27
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nice going to be my next little mod
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Old 02-07-2009, 03:45 AM   #28
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new mod
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:04 PM   #29
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I did mine a few years ago with an illuminated blue button from Ignited Performance.

http://www.ignitedperformance.com/sh...&parent=6&pg=1
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:51 PM   #30
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I just did mine except when I put the button in I took the LED from the power outlet and ran it to the cupholder to light it up like another DIY was saying to do with the light from the shifter...mines manual so that wasnt an option but i think it works better this way any way because if you have an auto you won't have to lose your shifter light.
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Old 03-27-2009, 04:00 AM   #31
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Mine is wired into my parking lights.
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Old 04-02-2009, 02:10 PM   #32
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I have the S2K button but my wiring technician is telling me i need more, I bought the button OEM from Honda, its just a button though.

What other parts do i need besides the button??
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:25 PM   #33
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this is sick. next on my mod list after the dash light re color!
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:26 PM   #34
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Okay, so I bought the S2K button from ebay but it didnt come with the second plug in the back.....any ideas of where to get one and how it looks like?
Also....Would it make a difference If I used a 5 prong relay (30, 85, 86, 87, 87a)?
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:25 AM   #35
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Also Wondering if the car starts while your in Drive, Reverse etc...
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:43 PM   #36
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no it will still only start in park/neutral unless you have a manual then obviously it doesnt matter.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:52 AM   #37
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My sig lighter wiring has bee used for other stuff already according to lexus (turbo car) can i still do this and wire it using something else?
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:54 AM   #38
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im doing this next.. just ordered the s2k button
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:17 AM   #39
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Before i start this mod, from what i understand it seems we are ditching the cig lighter outlet? Will it affect both oulets? Cuz i need it to recharge my gps lol
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